The Biggest SPF Mistake Most People Make

July is UV Safety Month! Very exciting stuff, I know. So, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to talk about something that is often misunderstood, and that is how sunscreen actually works and how to make sure it works for you! It's easy to spend a lot of time comparing SPF numbers, reading labels, and searching for the "best" sunscreen that we often overlook one of the biggest factors in whether our skin is actually protected. And as you know around here, we exclusively use a true, non-toxic mineral SPF and will not generally advocate for any other kind of SPF.

*Note: MANY so called “mineral” SPFs aren’t actually so clean after all. We actually did a deep dive on this topic → Click here to read. So, we stick with our own Daydream Mineral SPF since it's one we know we can trust and doesn’t have hidden toxins.

Over the years since releasing our Daydream Mineral SPF, we've had quite a few customers reach out and ask how to apply our SPF for maximum coverage, especially if they're dealing with certain sensitive skin conditions or melasma. We’ve also had a handful of people write in about sunburns, and with a little guidance, they were able to use their Mineral SPF without any burns! More often than not, the effectiveness of your mineral SPF has to do with how you are applying it more than the SPF number (more on that below). For instance, we typically ask the following questions when people reach out with sunburn concerns.

1. How long were you outside?

2. Were you swimming, sweating, or in direct wind?

3. Did you reapply and how much time went by between reapplying?

4. How much sunscreen did you apply the first application and were you outside before applying your first layer?

5. What products were you wearing underneath your SPF?

    

Almost every time, those answers reveal that they were either using too little SPF, not applying frequently enough for the activity they were participating in or the level of sweat that was happening, or let too much time pass between reapplication.

Common SPF Misconceptions

One of the biggest misconceptions about sunscreen is that the SPF number on the label is a guarantee of higher protection. If an SPF says SPF 30, it's easy to assume our skin is receiving SPF 30 protection, right? *by the way, we estimate our SPF is roughly around SPF 30 if not more! In reality, SPF testing is performed under very specific conditions using a generous amount of product that is applied evenly across the skin. If less sunscreen is applied, the level of protection decreases as well. This is true whether you're using a mineral sunscreen or a chemical sunscreen. In other words, sunscreen can only perform as well as it is applied.

Speaking of, it's also worth mentioning that a higher SPF number isn't necessarily a super dramatic leap in protection many people assume it is. SPF 15 blocks approximately 93% of UVB rays. SPF 30 blocks about 97%. SPF 50 blocks around 98%. As the numbers climb higher the increase in protection becomes surprisingly small. That's why dermatologists often emphasize proper application and consistent reapplication over simply choosing the highest SPF number on the shelf. Correct application SPF 30 (like our SPF is estimated to be) can often outperform an SPF 50 that was not applied correctly or enough.

So, yeah, you can see that application is especially important when using a mineral sunscreen like ours because mineral SPF works differently than chemical SPF. Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin and reduce ultraviolet rays after they reach the skin and convert that energy into heat. Mineral sunscreen works by creating a protective, PHYSICAL barrier on the surface of the skin, in our case with non-nano zinc oxide. Non-nano zinc oxide helps reflect and scatter those rays away from the skin's surface rather than allowing UV rays to absorb into the skin before neutralizing them. Again, because mineral SPF is creating a physical shield that means adequate coverage becomes SUPER important for efficacy. A thin, patchy layer will not provide the same level of protection as a generous and thorough application.

How to Maximize Protection

One comparison that we like to use is painting a wall. Imagine opening a fresh can of paint and applying just one very thin coat on the wall. You'll probably still see streaks, lighter areas, and spots. Yeah sure, the paint is technically there, but the coverage isn't adequate to do the job. Mineral sunscreen works in a similar way! The more complete and even the layer, the more protective the SPF becomes.

This is actually one of the reasons we chose to formulate Daydream Mineral SPF as a facial balm rather than a traditional lotion. A true moisturizer is designed primarily to deliver water and humectants into the skin. But a balm, alternately, is rich in nourishing butters, botanical oils, waxes, or other occlusives that naturally remain on the skin's surface. Since mineral sunscreen is also designed to remain on the surface of the skin, we felt a balm was the perfect base for a non-nano zinc oxide based SPF. It creates a beautiful protective layer while simultaneously helping support the skin barrier and lock in moisture. It truly is skincare! 

Another common misunderstanding is that sunscreen only needs to be applied once in the morning. This can be true, but it depends. Some days, I will only apply once in the morning depending on the activities I will be doing throughout the day. Sweat, wind, swimming, towels, hats, and touching your face gradually wear away that protective layer. This is why reapplication is important if you are outside for prolonged times, especially with high UV index and/or you are working your base tan up. If you're swimming, sweating heavily, or participating in activities with intense sun exposure, reapplying even more frequently than the recommended every 2 hour rule may be appropriate. We also like to wear hats if we are in the sun or high UV index areas for that extra layer of protection if needed.

Think about someone hiking in the mountains, spending an afternoon on the lake, gardening for several hours, or riding a motorcycle through direct sunlight. Those situations place far greater demands on sunscreen than simply walking from the grocery store to your car, taking a stroll in the park, or going in and out of the house throughout the day. Wind continually dries the skin, sweat breaks down the protective layer, water reflects additional UV rays back toward the face, so on so forth. Under those more intense conditions both the amount you apply initially and how often you reapply becomes even more important.

One question we occasionally receive is whether applying a thicker layer will clog pores or make skin feel heavy. We intentionally formulated our Daydream Mineral SPF to be low-comedogenic because we wanted people to feel comfortable applying enough product to receive the protection they need. Sunscreen is one area where using too little is far more common than using too much. While, sure, nobody wants a greasy face, most people would probably benefit from being a little more generous with their sunscreen than they currently are during sun-heavy activities that we described above.

How Much SPF Do We Use?

Again, depending on the time of day and location I am at, I may only apply SPF once the entire day, or not at all. Many days I will be in and out of the house gardening, and depending on how long I am outside and at what time of day, I won't apply any SPF that day as I want my body to receive sunlight. I have built up a great base tan and eat a lot of antioxidant-rich and fatty foods which all contribute to how well my skin can tolerate the sun.

Finally, I want to leave you with something we say often because we believe it is important for your health. We are NOT anti-sun. We love the sun. We even like to stare into it (depending on the type of day). We love gardening, walks outside and hiking, afternoons on the water, road trips, beach days, and every excuse to spend more time outdoors… Especially over here where the winters feel LONG.

First glimpse of sunshine and we are solar charging in our backyards. So, our hope is to lay it all out so you can know when to apply and how much to apply SPF for your skin needs. Wear enough sunscreen if needed. Reapply when your day calls for it. Choose a non-toxic, mineral SPF you feel good about putting on your skin. Then go enjoy summer without worry!

Any SPF Qs? Shoot your questions over to us at support@skinbalmapothecary.com ☀️

Here for you,

Brier