Melasma: What It Is & How To Address It

Hey there! 🔆

I hope this email finds you out enjoying the Spring sun… although, if you’re dealing with melasma, you might actually be doing everything you can to stay out of it! That brings us into today’s topic.

You’ve probably heard of melasma before, but if you have it, you know it tends to show up unannounced, stick around longer than you want it to, and feel defeating even when you feel like you’re doing everything “right” with your skin.

So, what exactly is it, how do you approach it, and how do you support it in a practical way?

What is Melasma?

To start, melasma is a bit different than hyperpigmentation. We actually have a full blog on hyperpigmentation and our founder’s approach to it, but in short, hyperpigmentation is a broad umbrella term used to describe a range of conditions where certain areas of skin become darker than the surrounding area. This includes things like freckles, liver spots, and melasma. They all show up a bit differently but they share the same underlying theme of excess pigment in one area of the skin vs the other.

Now, back to melasma specifically.

Melasma is a form of hyperpigmentation that shows up as patchy, often symmetrical areas of deeper pigment. It commonly appears on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and sometimes even the jawline. Unlike general dark spots from let say acne, melasma is more complex. It is typically influenced by a combination of hormones, heat, sun exposure, and genetic predisposition. This is why it often shows up during pregnancy or during seasons of hormonal fluctuation. It has been dubbed "the pregnancy mask" because of how common it is for women to experience this while hormones shift during pregnancy.

One of the most important things to understand is that melasma is not just surface level. It sits deeper within the skin’s pigment system... which is part of why it can feel more stubborn and less responsive to quick changes. It can also feel like it appears suddenly and then lingers for far longer than we'd like!

Sun exposure is one of the most well known triggers and one those with melasma are very cognizant of, but it is not the only one. Heat alone can stimulate pigment activity in the skin which is why melasma can worsen even without a direct burn. This is also why prevention is not just about avoiding sunlight but also about consistently supporting the skin in everyday life.

So, about that! Here are a few ways to approach melasma with your whole body in mind.

Approaching Melasma Holistically

Sun Protection
This one is totally obvious, but it is also foundational. Keep in mind, not all SPF is created equal. A quality mineral sunscreen creates a physical layer on the skin that reflects UV rays rather than absorbing them. Chemical sunscreens absorb into the skin and then convert UV rays through a reaction that can generate heat within the skin. Since heat is a known trigger for melasma, that distinction matters. A well formulated mineral SPF can be a much more supportive daily option for those navigating pigmentation concerns.

Around here at SBA, we believe deeply in sun protection, but we do not believe in fearing the sun. We need it. But when it comes to SPF, our mineral, non nano zinc based Daydream SPF is formulated to support the skin while protecting it, without contributing to excess heat in the skin. It is packed with antioxidant-rich botanicals, herbs, plant oils, and butters that help comfort the skin barrier while providing daily protection. It layers beautifully without heaviness or a chalky finish. It comes in two shades for our light and deeper-toned sisters.

Steady Change
Beyond SPF, melasma responds best to consistency and barrier support rather than quick and harsh corrections. It's deep nourishment rather than aggressive exfoliation or overly strong actives. The goal is to support the skin over time rather than forcing change... because if you have melasma, you already know the skin does not respond well to extremes or quick fixes. Melasma will not be rushed!

Diet and Internal Support
It is also worth acknowledging that hormones, inflammation, and sun sensitivity are all influenced by what is going on internally. While skincare matters, lasting change often requires looking at the whole picture, including what we are putting into our bodies and how our systems are being supported overall.

Organic, Holistic, Herbal Led Skincare
Gentle cleansing helps keep the skin balanced without stripping the barrier, which is why the Facial Cleansing Duo once daily can be a supportive foundation. Following with a mist like the Balancing Toner Mist helps prep the skin so it can better receive max nourishment.

Our Firming Serum and Awake Coffee Serum both offer plant powered support for skin that is dealing with uneven tone. They can help encourage a more balanced looking complexion without harsh actives. They can be alternated depending on what your skin needs that day. Hydration is also essential and the Blue Tansy HA Moisturizer supports the skin barrier in a deeply replenishing way and leaves the skin feeling cool. This is very important because a strong barrier helps regulate pigment activity over time.

Proper Exfoliation
Exfoliation can play a role with those addressing melasma, but it should always be gentle and intentional. Checkout our full exfoliation guides on the blog.

Keep the Peach Fuzz
Yes, I did say that. Frequent face shaving or dermaplaning removes peach fuzz which actually has implications for melasma. That fine hair offers a small layer of natural protection against environmental exposure and including sunlight. Some skin types may become more reactive and potentially more prone to uneven tone, hyperpigmentation, and melasma without a little peach fuzz... 

Microneedling
Microneedling can support skin renewal and encourage turnover when done properly and carefully about once a month. It may also help support pathways involved in pigment activity when used consistently. They key is you do not want to overdo microneedling. It can do more harm than good if not done properly. 

Light Therapy
Green light therapy is another supportive tool often used in routines focused on uneven tone. This type of light therapy is not as popular as red light therapy, but it serves a different purpose than red light. It's commonly used to help support balance in pigment activity within the skin. Remember, these treatments must be done consistently to see results. 

Now for something that is often overlooked in melasma conversations.

Even with the most consistent skincare routine, melasma may not fully disappear for everyone. For some, it becomes something that comes and goes throughout life rather than something that completely disappears. Hormones, genetics, and internal triggers can continue to influence pigment activity no matter how intentional your skincare routine is. Our skin is often a reflection of what is happening internally, and it does not always respond in a linear way. 

Dermatology is also more recently recognized that melasma often requires a layered, long term approach. Professional treatments like peels or light based therapies can be part of that for those who want additional support but maintenance is typically ongoing rather than a one and done kind of thing.

To close this out, it is important to acknowledge the emotional side of melasma as well. While it is not considered medically dangerous... it can carry a lot of emotional weight. Many people experience frustration, self consciousness, or a sense of unpredictability when it shows up, especially when it feels so out of their control or they can't figure out their triggers.

And perhaps the most important thing to hold onto is this. Melasma does not have to be viewed only as something to erase. For some, it softens over time. For others it comes and goes. And for many... it becomes a long term part of their skin journey. And that is okay! You are still oh so beautiful. 

There is something to be said about learning to care for your skin with consistency and patience while still allowing space to appreciate it even if there are things you are working on. Sometimes that means actively trying to change and sometimes it means holding both our desire for different skin and acceptance at the same time. When we focus on how we are treating our entire body and don't rush progress, it can help relieve pressure. 

Your skin is always communicating with you. Melasma happens to be one of the ways it speaks through patterns and response. And while perfection is not the goal and honestly does not exist, understanding your skin and caring for it consistently is something real you can achieve. 

As always, we are here to walk with you through that journey with skincare rooted in nature, herbal wisdom, and longevity.

Here for you, 

Brier